Fugitives Drift Lodge For The Perfect Zulu Battlefield Encounter
Fugitives Drift was established by David Rattray together with his wife Nicky and built an award winning lodge for travellers to enjoy this remarkable tale. Tragically, in January 2007, David was killed by an intruder but Fugitives Drift is a fantastic legacy to something he developed with his wife Nicky and it still remains today. Rob Caskie has taken over as the primary historian. Like David, Rob speaks fluent Zulu, understands the history inside out and is perhaps the best orator I’ve ever heard.
The 2 battles I was interested by were the battle at Isandlwana where the Zulu army wiped out around 1,300 British troops on 22nd January 1879. Later on that day, a lesser force of Zulus who had missed out on the action at Isandlwana, sought their opportunity and so against orders, they assaulted Rorke’s Drift. This defensive action went down in the history of the British Army as one of its most remarkable battles which saw eleven Victoria Crosses awarded. Less than 140 British troops battled with approximately 4,000 Zulus in a battle that raged all night.
My stop at Fugitives Drift started out with the afternoon tour of the Rorke’s Drift site. It is a couple of miles from the Lodge and we started looking round the museum that was hospital building at the time of the battle. As with most battlefield museums, there are different artefacts from the battle (rifles, bullets, buckles, spears etc) yet the most eye-catching item I found was a model of the battlefield. It showed the latter stages of the battle after the hospital had been evacuated and the soldiers were defending the store behind their stacks of mealie bags. The model revealed a few red coated troops surrounded on all sides by Zulu warriors several deep and this was the 1st occasion I’d really had the opportunity to visualise the battle properly. All of the movies and images I’ve seen in the past were in most cases close ups with a few people yet this model provided an overall impression that was quite frankly, astonishing.
To assist travellers and tourists imagine the layout, there are lines of stones marking where the defensive lines were placed. Rob started the tale detailing what Rorke’s Drift was and the reasons why it had been assaulted. He made you realise there was clearly so much more to the battle than only a struggle between black and white, British redcoat versus Zulu warrior. Overall, the excursion was about three hours and everyone only sat listening to this excellent story teller recounting the incidents of 22nd January 1879.
Back at the lodge, I freshened up in my superb room. It really was a shame I couldn’t spend longer in the room since it was so comfortable however it was time for beverages just ahead of dinner and so I made my way to the dining area. The room is much like a museum with pictures, flags, notes, firearms and a great deal more covering the walls. The dinner itself was fantastic. Everybody staying at the Lodge sat around the a single table. It had been an extremely satisfying evening but an early start the next day meant it wouldn’t be a late night.
My 6:30am alarm call was a nice warm pot of tea being brought to my room (its wonderful to see a few British traditions still live on). We’d a good warm breakfast just before leaving for our morning excursion of Isandlwana. This battlefield is across the Buffalo river and the historian was a Zulu named Joseph. This is a very different battleground to Rorke’s Drift. The battle took place on a massive plain in the shadow of a mountain so the orientation took a lot longer as we first went to the museum ahead of moving on to the hilltop from where the Zulu commanders were standing 129 years ago. We headed over to the battlefield itself and parked up. Now the talk was going to be a few hours hence we had deck chairs that we carried up the mountain to a vantage point which offered us a wonderful view of the battleground. Bear in mind, the elevation was around a mile above sea level thus it wasn’t the easiest climb I’d ever tried.
Joseph, like Rob gave us a compelling lecture and really helped us picture the scene. He also said that though he was a Zulu, he wasn’t there to offer ‘their side of the story’, he wanted to provide us with the facts of what happened, occasionally in really graphic detail. At the right times, he would echo the Zulu cries which were made way back in 1879 and as his voice echoed all around us, it helped bring a lot more realism to the setting. The story was captivating. I listened to Joseph recited what was happening and my eyes wandered around the surroundings which was full of heaps of white stones. These heaps of stones mark the resting places of the British troopers who were buried where the died. Each pile of stones represented 6-8 men except for 2 sizeable heaps that were for as many as forty men. The hard African earth meant it had been tough to dig anything but shallow graves for the soldiers and heap stones on them.
Just after the talk was over, we had time to walk round several of the graves and memorials at Isandlwana before heading back again for lunch. This was an amazing destination and I most certainly could have done with having an extra day as there was a Zulu village to visit in addition to the walk down to the Buffalo river where Lieutenants Melvill and Coghill lost their lives saving the Queen’s Colour of their regiment and years later became the very first men to be posthumously awarded the Victoria Cross.
There was a time that when a white man in car was seen in this area, it typically meant they were lost. Nowadays, it has an industry based on the work David and Nicky Rattray began meaning there’s a massive fascination with those battles involving the army of the biggest Empire the planet has ever seen and the very best warriors Africa has ever produced.
The Anglo Zulu War of 1879 last only six months but had a significant impact on both the Zulu Kingdom and the British Empire.. Unique version for reprint here: Fugitives Drift Lodge For The Perfect Zulu Battlefield Encounter.
